Music gives a soul to the UNIVERSE, wings to the MIND, flight to the IMAGINATION, and life to everything- Plato
Last Updated: April 14, 2023
There are times in life, if you are lucky, where you feel incredibly blessed and grateful for where you are in that moment. Perhaps it is a sense of fate that has brought you to this spot at this time. And, even without a camera in hand, these moments are stowed away inside us – deep within our hearts. I tuck these moments in my back pocket for rainy days and take them out when I need a reminder of the beauty, joy, and play around us and that I have experienced it. In these moments, I feel connected to the larger world while feeling small and humbled by all that it is out there to experience.
And, while a perfect day in Lisbon may not exist, this one night at Pova Lisboa came pretty close.
It is a Tuesday evening in March 2023, we are greeted by a young, upbeat, and welcoming young man at the door. We tell him we have a reservation at 8:30 pm, and he shuttles us through the door and to our table. Along the way, he informs of us their policies. He lets us know that there is a nominal artist fee of $5, no flash photography can be used, which is wonderful to hear, silence must be observed when the musicians are performing, and no table service occurs during the 4 acts, so we need to quickly order food and drinks if we want anything. We are seated at the last empty table, which is front center to two folding chairs with their backs against the wall. We order some tapas and a bottle of wine. Just as our server brings us the wine and food, the lights are dimmed. Only then does the show begin.
The small and intimate space is lit by a series of overhead lights. An arched almost cave like interior sets the stage for an experience no visitor to Portugal should miss. Dressed in a beige pantsuit and white blouse, a beautiful young fadista, Beatriz Janes, gently but with command approaches the center of the room. Two gentleman come in and sit facing each other – one a Portuguese guitarist and one a classical guitarist. The young woman explains in Portuguese and English that there will be 4 acts and 3 intermissions. She tells us a brief account of fado music and introduces the troop.
Soft plucking and strumming pulls me into the scene. I am entranced. And, the almost operatic voice of the fadista sneaks its way into the song and overwhelms me with emotions. I am elated and filled with joy. Yet, I find myself torn into pieces holding back tears of sadness. Fado, like many other forms of music is packed with emotions. I am later told that if you don’t leave a fado show feeling all the feels, it probably wasn’t a good show. As I listen to her sing in Portuguese, I am surprised by how much I can understand. The raw emotions in her voice, on her face, and in her body melt into the understanding of the song. As the first song concludes, applause and the sound of “brava” echo through the room. It is like a dance between the trio in their mastery. We watch, fully engaged during the acts, snack on treats and wine during intermissions. We share conversation about music and life with the adorable Venezuelan couple seated next to us. Three hours later, the show concludes and the moment is etched into my heart and soul.
At the end of the show, I catch the fadista and chat with her. She asks if I speak Portuguese. I say “no.” She is surprised at the level of emotion and understanding that I appear to have. I tell her that it is easier to understand because of the level of emotion seen on all the musicians faces and in her voice. She tells me that while she has a repertoire of songs, there is no set list. The trio decides what to play based on their feelings and the emotions of the crowd. There was a steady mix of sadness and upbeat songs over the course of the night. And, while this is my first experience with fado, it leaves me hungry for more.
Lisbon is a gritty, unique, colorful large city densely packed with TONS of things to do and see. There are many places to see a fado show that I have researched and learned of while in the country, but it was like magic being able to experience it at Povo Lisboa with the brilliant trio of musicians. There are countless restaurants to try local cuisine and many miradours or viewpoints to enjoy at sunset while sharing a delicious glass of wine and some local meat and cheeses. But, while you are in Portugal, you must not miss an opportunity to see a show, and I would highly recommend taking in that show at Povo Lisboa. It is great option for those who don’t want to shell out $45+ dollars a person for a sit down 4 course dinner or for people who want to dip their toes into the transformative waters of fado music. And, again, while the city is full of options, many are only open Thursdays through Sundays. As music lovers, we knew this wasn’t something we could miss, but we also didn’t need a full dinner, and Tuesday was our only option. Lots of research before we landed in Portugal and while in Portugal kept me going back to the website of Povo. Luckily, this gem of a restaurant/bar had exactly what we wanted and needed.
Unlike many other places that offer fado music, Povo has fadistas or fado musicians daily from 20h30 – 23h00. They also don’t charge for a full meal. But, don’t be fooled. Their food was amazing, and we wish we had not taken a recommendation from an airbnb guidebook and had dinner somewhere else. We wish we had eaten at Povo for dinner instead. We snacked on pork croquets, pork cheeks, cheese, homemade fries, and some other goodies. The adorable couple seated next to us from Venezuela, who had been living in France, had a ridiculously delicious and aromatic dish with shrimp and clams. We ordered a vino branco or white wine from the Alentejo region of Portugal. The Astronauta Savignon Blanc was a lovely addition to the evening with the crisp, high acidity and citrus fruit. We were delighted to find so many Portuguese wines almost everywhere we ate. It is as if winemakers Aníbal José Coutinho and Carlos Eduardo handpicked this wine for us for the night. It went very well with the cheese we shared and accompanying dipping sauces.
There is a small fee of $5 for the artists. We thought that was more than generous given the amazing experience we had. Getting there is easy and convenient. Uber is a simple and cost effective transportation option for many who don’t want to walk late in the evening. You can get around the city for less $5 in an Uber if you are so inclined. I know if this had been my single gal traveling days, I would have really appreciated how easy it is to get around the city safely at night. Povo Lisboa is located on the famous “Pink Street” or Rua Cor de Rosa, better known as Rua Nova do Carvalho in Lisbon. I had wanted to see this street but didn’t make it there on other days. We were pleasantly surprised when we arrived to find that the bar was on the same street. Povo is in the same area as the Mercado da Ribeira and the bottom or start of the Elevador da Bica. We are not at a point in our lives where we hit up bars late at night on the regular, but it was cool seeing all the younger folks out at all the bars as we walked out of the area. It would be fun to venture into some for you night owls. Povo Lisboa closes almost right after the show, but the neighborhood Cais do Sodre, which was once Lisbon’s Red-Light District, was hopping at this hour on a weekday evening.
If you ever come to Lisbon or Portugal and are interested in fado or music, don’t miss it!
- Suggested venue: Povo Lisboa
- Location: Rua Nova do Carvalho 32 – 36 in Lisbon; located on the famous “Pink Street” in Lisbon; just a 4 minute walk from the famous Mercado da Ribeira or Time Out Market
- Performance hours: Fadistas do povo or fado musicians at Povo play everyday 20h30 – 23h00
- Reservations highly suggested: Booking online is easy and quick and doesn’t require prepayment or a credit card to hold reservations. I would recommend booking a table for 20:00 or 20:30. The show has 4 acts and 3 intermissions. The servers will not bring food and drink during the acts to ensure the space is quiet and respectful. Getting there before the shows starts allows the servers to get you some food and drinks before the first act. And, believe me, you want to try some of their delicious food!
- Cost: $5 for artist fees; glasses of wine $4 and up; bottles of wine $18 and up; beer $2 and up; cocktails $7 and up; cafe $1 and up; food ranges from homemade fries and other tapas under $5 to more hearty full-sized plates at around $20 for 2-4 people
- Photography tips: 1) Don’t use flash when photographing musicians. Bump up your ISO to 1600+; use a tripod or something like a table to avoid movement. 2) Avoid shooting non-stop; stop and enjoy the show and let the performers and guests enjoy the moment instead of focusing on your camera. 3) Turn off shutter sounds and AF assist beam firing.
- Language lesson: Fado – fate; destiny; a Portuguese musician. Thank you – obrigada (feminine speakers) and obrigado (masculine speakers). Fantsatic – fantastico/fantastica. Red wine – vinho tinto. White wine – vinho branco.
